Orient Day Date CEV0J002B

Orient Day Date CEV0J002B

day_date_dial

I had my birthday a couple months ago and received a watch. It was not quite me, so I went ahead and bought this one instead. For years I really admired Orient’s homage watches. Sadly, since Seiko now controls Orient, they politely told them to stop producing the Rolex homage watches. This is good and bad. Orient produces some really unique, mechanical watches and I am glad their in house design team is up to the task of producing their own designs. The down side is Orient made a damn good homage watch that could pass for the real deal and in some ways surpassed what they were an homage to. Invicta makes homage watches, but they really stick to the Rolex Submariner and Omega Seamaster lines. In the sub $300 range, there are not too many Datejust or Day-Date homages with sapphire crystals and solid build quality. So, I finally snapped up this watch before they run out of stock.

The dial of the watch is a black sunburst, which is a pattern I have not seen before. The hour markers are sapphire, and are at all hours except for the twelve and three o’clock position. They do look like diamonds and are set into gold, applied markers. The minute chapter ring is a simple affair, printed in gold on the dial. The full day of the week window is located between the eleven and one o’clock markers. The date is at the tradition three o’clock position. Both day and date wheels are white, with black printing. The dial is not verbose, which I like. I hate when the dial of a watch is printed like a novel. There is the Orient name with dual lion logo at twelve o’clock; at the six o’clock is Automatic SAPPHIRE 100m in muted gold printing. The hands are simple, gold plated sticks. I wish all three were a little longer, but they are still very visible against the dark dial. The reason this watch is not a fake or slavish homage is the fact the combination of black dial, diamond markers, jubilee bracelet, day-date was never done by Rolex.

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The crystal is sapphire and flat. There is a cyclops magnifier over the date. It looks to be about a 2.5x magnification. The bezel is gold plated and fluted. Not quite as sharp as the real thing, but very well done.

dd_back

The case is oyster style and very close to the original. It is a small, for modern standards, 36mm. Thankfully the case is also thin, at 11mm, it slides easily under long sleeves. The top of the case is brushed, the sides are very highly polished. The crown is gold plated, deeply knurled, and screw down. There are no crown guards. The threading on the screw down feature is very well done. All of the screw down Orient watches I own share this feature. The case back is solid stainless steel and laser etched with Orient, movement and case name, stainless steel, and 100m water resistance. The case back is screw down and has imitation Rolex style case back grooves, but also has the traditional 6 notch indentations for opening the case back. The movement is an Orient in-house design, automatic, with quick set date and semi-quick set day. It keeps excellent time and has over 40 hours of power reserve.

bracelet

The bracelet is very very high quality, solid link jubilee style. Most jubilee bracelets I have encountered are folded links in the center, this has solid links everywhere except the end links. The center of the jubilee is gold plated. The steel is brushed on top, polished on the sides, identical to the case. It is very comfortable to wear and does not rattle or squeak. The deployant is a two button design with no safety. The clasp is embossed with the Orient name and twin lion logo. There are only two adjustment holes, but with the small links, it really does not matter. It defiantly has a better bracelet than most older Rolex watches.

I am very happy I was able to acquire this model before it disappears forever. It cuts very close to the original, but is not a fake. The build quality is amazing and it feels a lot more expensive than it is. If you can find this model, or one of the other combinations, grab it while you can. For Rolex lover’s out there who don’t want to pay for the style, this is the way to go.

Features:
Case: 36mm x 11mm, stainless steel, 100m water resistance.
Back: Stainless Steel, screw down, Orient makers mark, water resistance and serial number.
Crystal: Sapphire, flat, with magnifier.
Movement: Automatic,  Orient in-house design and manufacture.
Complications: Full Day of Week, Date.
Other: Solid link bracelet. Sapphire markers.

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Seiko Alpinist SAR017

Seiko Alpinist SARB017
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The Grail.  For every watch collector, there is a ‘grail’ watch.  The one watch you have wanted for years, but could never justify the expense.  Some collectors shoot so high, they will never own that Rolex or Bell&Ross.  Me, I fell in love with the Seiko SARB017 Alpinist.  By no means a ‘luxury timepiece’, but still significantly higher priced than what most people would pay for a watch.  In this case, a little under $400.  For years I pined for this watch.  What made me pull the trigger?  Well, to be honest, I just left a job I spent 10 years at.  If I stayed on till later in the year I would of received an anniversary watch, but I know it was just a quartz watch.  Nothing I would pick for myself.  So this is a reward for finding a new position (that I really like so far) and actually having enough wherewithal to actually go through the whole process of changing jobs.  Enough of me, on to the watch.

sarb017_dial

The dial.  The dial of this watch is what really makes it.  A sunburst emerald green shifts in color with different lighting. In all my years of watch collecting, I don’t think I have ever encountered another emerald green dial.  The markers are gold plated, Arabic at the even hours, triangles at the odd hours.  Very easy to see.  The minutes chapter ring is white with 1/6 of a second tic marks, with luminous pips on each hour.  The outer chapter ring is a compass that is turned with the crown at the 4 o’clock position.  It turns easily and north is marker with a red arrow.  A gold pated Seiko is at noon, and Automatic Diashock 23 Jewels 20BAR is at the six o’clock position.  The date is displayed at the traditional 3 o’clock position and has a black background with white Arabic numbers.  The dial is not cluttered at all and has a field or military air to it.  The hands are cathedral style, very traditional and have a healthy coating of luminous material.  This watch has very good lume and appears to have a high grade of lumibrite, that glows for at least 4 hours.  It rivals my Seiko Diver’s and Omega.

left_side right_side

The crystal, bezel, and case.  The crystal is sapphire and flat with anti-reflective coating.  As you can see in the photo above, it is almost invisible in some light.  The bezel is a high polished stainless steel and is chamfered to 45 degrees.  The crystal is about the thickest sapphire I have ever seen.  This is probably due to the 20 bar water resistance rating.  That’s right, it is a sport watch that you could swim and dive with.  The case is a classic ‘oyster’ style with down turned lugs.  The fit and finish are nothing less than amazing.  The crown is at the 3 0’clock position and is signed, deeply, with an S.  It is a screwdown and threads and unthreads easily.  The crown at 4 o’clock turns the compass bezel.  Both crowns have deep teeth and are easy to turn.  There are no hard edges and the polish is about the best I have ever seen.  All stainless steel, of course.  Even on leather, the watch feels quite substantial, and feels like a diver’s watch.  The lugs are 20mm, so a lot of options when it comes to straps and bracelets.

A word on the included band.  I have to agree with other reviewers, it is pretty awful and I just don’t understand what Seiko was thinking.  I replaced it immediately with the calf skin strap seen in the photos.  I also added a deployment as well.  You can get it on a oyster style bracelet, but I like the look of leather.

backCase back and movement.  The case back is solid, as with every Japan domestic model Seiko I have encountered so far.  The center is embossed with the Alpinist logo with 3 mountains.  The watch is Made in Japan and is the first Alpinist made in July of 2014.  It has a 0001 serial number.  The case is this and heavily built and the watch wears much larger than the 38mm diameter would lead you to believe.  The movement is Seiko’s mid grade 6R15 with 50 hour power reserve.  Considering it only has one spring barrel, that is a lot of power reserve.  Right now it is running about -4 seconds a day, which is acceptable for any mechanical watch that is not chronometer rated.  The movement also hacks and hand winds.  It has 23 jewels, anti-magnetic, and has Seiko’s Diashock protection.

With the exception of the included band, the watch is nothing less than amazing.  I have worn it almost every day and quality wise, I would say it rivals my Omega.  It exceeds the Omega for water resistance and the lume is just hair better as well.  The accuracy out of the box is excellent and everything about it screams quality and attention to detail.  It is easy to get lost just staring at the green dial.  It can be worn with a suit or a t-shirt, so a great everyday wear watch.  It has a style that only borrows the oyster case, but little else.  Everything else is all Seiko style.  I really love this watch and I feel like it was money well spent.

Features:
Case: 38mm diameter, stainless steel, 20 Bar water resistance.
Back: Stainless Steel, screw down.
Crystal:  Sapphire, flat, anti-reflective coating.
Movement: Automatic,  6R15,  Seiko in house design, Japan Made.  Hacks, hand winds, 50 hour reserve.  21600 BPH.
Complications:  Date, compass bezel.
Other: Luminous Hands and markers.

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Orient FFD0F004W0 Vintage Modern

Orient Watch Review FFD0F004W0 Vintage Modern

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For my birthday I wanted a dress watch with a complication that I have not had before. In this case, I really wanted a dress watch with a power reserve indicator. I ended up getting an Orient FFD0F004W0 automatic watch with power reserve. It has all the styling of a classic watch, but with modern sizing and proportions. It also has the modern touches, which I will visit below.

orient_power_reserve_dial

Let us start with the dial.  It is a richly textured champagne colored dial.  The center, which is just a touch wider than the hour hand radius, is a woven texture.  The area between the woven center and the chapter ring is concentric rings. Beneath the power reserve indicator it looks like tiny curtain bunting. The hour markers are applied trapezoids with a brushed top and polished sides. They stand out very well from the dial. The 12 o’clock indicator has two markers. The chapter ring used traditional Arabic numbers for every five minutes, and simple ticks for the minute markers. It is very reticent of a pocket watch I have as well. At the three o’clock position is the date indicator, ringed in brushed chrome. The date wheel is white with black numbering. The power reserve indicator is located between the eleven and one o’clock position. It can show up to forty hours of reserve. This is a new complication for my collection, it shows how many hours of wind are left on the mainspring. I have found it to be fairly accurate, the watch usually goes 42 hours on a full wind.

The hands are dauphin shaped and blued. The hour and minute hands have luminous material, but the markers on the dial do not. The second hand is a simple, blued stick hand and is a nice length that extends all the way to the chapter ring. The power reserve indicator hand is also dauphin and blued steel. The dial of the watch is relatively free of verbiage. Just below the center of the dial is the Orient twin lion logo with e ORIENT AUTOMATIC and the two crystals indicating a sapphire crystal. In tiny print at the bottom of the dial is Japan Mov’t FDOF-CO-A. Overall, the dial is well proportioned with proper length hands and easy to see markers. The luminous material is the typical, next to useless Orient lume. I really don’t know why Seiko does not give Orient a couple of cans of Lumibrite to do Orient’s dials. Even the cheapest Seiko 5’s have much better luminous material. It is my only complaint with Orient watches. That being said, this is a dress watch and it is great in that respect. I would say the fit and finish of the dial and hands can go toe to toe with anything from Switzerland.

orient_crown

The crystal is flat sapphire, with anti-reflective coating. The bezel is brushed steel, sloping away from the crystal. The top and side of the case is brushed, but there are polished accents on the bezel, lugs and case of the watch. The case is a modern, 40mm in diameter. The crown is at the traditional 9 o’clock position and unsigned. It does not wind the watch, only sets time. The first position is the quick set date, the second is for setting the time. The lugs are 22mm and well proportioned to the watch. The inside of the lugs is highly polished. The overall case fit and finish is excellent.

orient_back

The back of the watch is screw down, display type glass. The display back reveals a beautifully finished movement with cotes de geneve, or in this case, Tokyo stripes. This is the only modern watch I have that has a decorated finish, and I am very glad they put a display back on. The rotor is etched and filled in with color, Orient Japan Twenty-One Jewels 46N45 and even has the Orient two lion logo. The movement is very accurate, with less than 5 seconds a day gained or lost. It does not hand wind or hack, but it does include the power reserve indicator. All of my Orient watches keep excellent time. I believe they must adjust them better at the factory than their Seiko counterparts. The case is all stainless steel and 50M water resistance. Good enough for day to day, but I would not swim with it on. I would not recommend swimming with a dress watch on. T

orient_deployant

Continuing on with the overall quality of the watch is the leather band. It is a genuine leather band, crocodile pattern, 22mm at the lugs and tapers 20mm. The watch came with a factory two button deployant clasp, a great touch class for a watch in this price range. The deployant has a high polish, stainless steel, and marked Orient. It works flawlessly and is very comfortable. I am sure it will extend the life of the leather band and it just looks cool when you take it off.

orient_buckle

This watch, I am almost tempted to call it a timepiece, is a wonderfully balanced piece. No corners were cut. Everything from the finish of the case, to the sapphire crystal, to the high finishing of the movement just screams quality. I recently visited a jewelry store that sells Hamilton watches. This Orient had features that watches that cost five to ten times as much didn’t have, like a deployant clasp on the band and a well decorated movement. Even the finish of the watch dial is better on the Orient. Overall, I am very very happy with this watch. It is handsome, modern, and will look just as good in 30 years as it does now. If you are in the market for a dress watch, check it out. There are other color combinations and dials, black, white, and some come on a steel bracelet. For the price point, less than $400, you really can’t beat it.

Features:
Case: 40mm diameter, stainless steel, 50M water resistance.
Back: Stainless Steel with display crystal, screw down.
Crystal:  Sapphire, flat, anti-reflective coating.
Movement: Automatic,  46N45,  Orient In house design and manufacture, Japan Made, decorated .
Complications:  Date, power reserve.
Other: Genuine Leather band, with two button deployant, Luminous Hands.

 

 

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Seiko 5 SNK803 Beige Flieger/Pilot’s

Review Seiko 5 SNK803 Beige

snk803_dial

For years I have wanted this watch.  It was almost my first automatic watch, it lost out to my green military style 5.  It is a Flieger or pilot style watch.  It is a wonderfully clean design and has been made by many manufactures for many years.  This Seiko example, the SNK803 has been in production for many years and uses the (now classic) 7S26 movement.  My newest watch in my collection is about the most factory fresh models I haver ever worn.  It was made in September of 2013, and now on my wrist as of December 2013, so less than three months since it left the factory in Malaysia.  Interestingly, it is a 7S26C, not sure what has been updated, but the movement seems well finished and decorated for an entry level movement.  But, let’s start with the outside. The dial for this watch is beige/cream colored with stark, black printing.  The printing is Seiko perfect, with no flaws visible, even under a loupe.  The Seiko and 5 shield are applied.  What makes a pilot’s style watch unique is the emphasis on minutes instead of hours, instead of hours, like standard military watches.  The hour makers are contained inside of a clean circle.  The minutes are printed at 5 minute intervals, and have tick marks for every minute.  There is no chapter ring.  The 0 minute mark is a triangle.   As you can see, the hands are Flieger extended diamonds and the second hand has a red tip and a large, luminous tail.  The hands are filled with luminous material and show up well in all lighting conditions.  There is the classic Seiko 5 day and date window.  My only complaint is that, while there are luminous pips on every hour, there is no indication of what ‘up’ is on the watch in total darkness.  A small complaint, and not unique, as several of my watches have the same issue.  The bezel holding the flat, hardlex crystal matches the body of the watch well.  The crystal has very little glare and is typical of a watch in this price point.  Overall, a very clean, classic design.

snk803_crown_side

The case of the watch is bead blasted stainless steel.  The small, unsigned crown is at the 3:48 position, which is typical of most Seiko 5’s.  Since the movement can not be hand wound or hacked, the small crown is not a big deal and is slightly recessed.  The offset crown and the little projection make is very comfortable to wear and it never digs into your wrist.  The lugs are 18mm and slightly turned down.  The case is only about 37.5mm in diameter, so modern small for men, but good for those of us with smaller wrists, including women.  My wife tried this watch on, and it looked perfectly acceptable.  It is only 10.5 mm high, so it hides well under long sleeves.  The watch wears well is is fairly light on the nylon strap.

snk803_back_movement

The case back is a hardlex, display type showing the brand new 7S26C.  It seems a little better finished than the A and B version, and apparently, there are some other improvements as well.  It is a very tried and true design, a direct descent of the Seiko 5’s of 50 years ago!  It lacks hacking or hand-winding, but, if you are a classic 5 fan, they are part of the charm.  The watch winds quickly via your body motions.  This particular movement seems well adjusted from the factory, I have worn it more than a week and have not had to adjust the time yet, so it must be less than 5 seconds a day of variation.  As with every Seiko, it is all stainless steel.  No base metal here.

snk803_buckle

Last, but not least is the nylon, two ring, strap.  It is very heavy nylon with two steel keepers.  One is fixed, the other floats.  The buckle is signed Seiko and it, and the keepers are all bead blasted to match the finish of the watch.  It is comfortable to wear and should last for many years.

Seiko_Box_Closed

Seiko_Box_Open

Probably the most remarkable thing about this watch is the price, less than $60, shipped, from Amazon.  At this price point, it is just a remarkable deal to get a Seiko Automatic for about the same price (actually, less than) a Timex or Fossil, or other fashion watch brands.  Seiko, unlike many others, is a true watch manufacture, with all in house movements and more than 100 years of watch making experience.   As you can see above, even the presentation box is nice quality.  No cheap, plastic box, but a good quality box and pillow. Try getting that with a $60 Timex.

This watch happens to be a replacement for my departed Timex field watch.  After its fourth battery change, the quartz module decided to strip some gears and not work any more.    It will be interesting to see what this watch looks like after 15 years of service, with no battery changes to wreck the seals and warp the movement.

Overall, this watch is a fantastic deal, looks great, and is a must buy for pilot watch lovers.  It comes in black, blue, and green as well, so if you want more of an authentic Flieger, Type B look, the black one matches up pretty well.  I am very pleasantly surprised by the accuracy so far, and I have already put it though its paces.  Shovelling snow with it on, going sledding, and doing ordinary daily activities without missing a beat.  If you need a practical watch that will far outlast the Chinese made specials, look no further than a Seiko 5.

 

Features:
Case: 37.5mm diameter, stainless steel, 30m water resistance.
Back: Hardlex exhibition back, screw down.
Crystal: Hardlex, flat.
Movement: Automatic, 7S26C, Seiko in-house design. No handwind or hacking.
Complications: Day of week, Date
Other: Luminous hands and markers, Lumibrite.

 

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Seiko 5 Sports SRP273K1

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This is a very unique watch, insomuch that it was paid for by you, the readers of watches.cyberphreak.com! The small ads you see on the side and bottom of the page generated enough cash to fund the purchase of this watch, so, a big Thank You, to all you kind followers out there. Now, off to the watch.

This is a Seiko 5 Sports, a SRP273K1. This watch is my second with Seiko’s new line-up of entry level automatic movements, the 24 jewel 4R36A. While the 7S26/36 is a solid movement, it lacks hand winding and hacking, both of which the 4R35/36 provide. The 4R35 has date only, the 36 has day and date. While what is on the inside is important, it is what is on the outside that you notice.

The dial of this watch is deep black, with lime green markings. The contrast is very deep and makes the watch very easy to read. The hour markers are Arabic numerals, with the 12 and 6 O’clock markers larger for easier time telling. All hour markers have a luminous dot between the marker and the chapter ring. The chapter ring has a lot going on. There is a 24 hours scale, in addition to second markings, and finally, 1/6 of a second markings to match with the long seconds hand. The dial is quite verbose, with Seiko, the 5 shield, Sports, Automatic 24 jewels, 100M and a box around the day and date window.

The hour and minute hands are large, Skelettform, filled with luminous material. They are, thankfully, appropriately long. The hour hand extends to the hour makers, and the minute hand extends all the way to the chapter ring. The seconds hand is a simple stick with a large, circular, luminous tail. It also extends to the chapter ring. That is one thing I really like about Seiko watches, nearly all of them have correctly proportioned hands to the dial. For the day and date, the day of the week dial is black, and the day dial is white. This is a nice touch, since there is no hour maker at the 3 O’clock position.  The hands are well filled with LumiBrite and glow for several hours, even exposed to just indoor lighting.  Not as well as my Diver’s, but good enough for most people.

seiko_crown

The case is a pleasingly modern 39.5mm in diameter, stainless steel.  It actually wears larger than 39.5mm.  The top and bezel are brushed, the sides are polished.  The crystal is Hardlex and flat.  Glare is rarely a problem with Seiko’s Hardlex, even with flat crystals.  The bezel makes the watch wear bigger than it actually is.  The crown is unsigned, but very large and easy to wind.  This is important since you can hand wind this watch.  I think my largest complaint with my Omega is that is is pretty hard to wind, especially compared to this Seiko, which cost a twentieth the price.  The lugs are 20mm and are drilled through, to make for easy band changes.

seiko_back_movement

The case back is an exhibition, Hardlex and polished stainless steel.  It shows the latest entry level automatic movement from Seiko, the 4R36.  It is simply, but well finished with laser sharp markings.  It appears to have a bit more polished parts and finer finishing on the bridges, as compared to the 7S26/36.  The 24 jewel movement keeps good time with a 40+ hour power reserve when fully wound.  Hacking and hand winding are standard now.  This particular watch is running a little fast, about 20 seconds a day, but I am sure it will settle down after a few more months.  Seiko tends to set the timing a little fast from the factory since they know when the movement breaks in, it will slow down a little.  In this view, you can see the large, deeply knurled crown as well.

seiko_buckle

 

Finally, we have the 3 ring, Zulu, nylon band.  The rings and buckle are stainless steel and highly polished.  The buckle is signed Seiko.  The green stripe perfectly matches the green markers and hands of the watch.  The black matches the dial.  It is also the thickest nylon band I have ever seen.  Seriously, it makes makes every after market band I have seen look like a joke.  It is 20mm the whole length.

This watch is a great sports watch, true to its name.  It is easy to read in all lighting conditions, and is a nice, modern size without being overwhelming for smaller wrists.  The watch feels like a quality piece, with the small touches like the band being perfectly matched to the dial of the watch.  The movement upgrade from the previous generation of Seiko 5 Sports is very welcome, and did not significantly increase the price of the watches with this new line of movements.  It has received a lot of wrist time over the past few months and pairs well with casual clothing.  A dress watch, this is not.  See this review for it’s dressier brother.  I am very happy wearing this watch and recommend it to anyone looking for a field/military style watch.

Features:
Case: 39.5 mm diameter, 13mm thick, Stainless Steel.  100M water resistance.
Back:  Hardlex display, screw down.
Crystal: Hardlex, flat.
Movement: SEIKO 4R36, 24 jewel automatic,  hand winds and hacks.
Complications: Day, Date
Other:  On Seiko Zulu nylon heavy duty strap.

 

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Timex Blue Vintage

Review Timex Blue Dial Vintage

Blue_Dial_1

As part of my expanding vintage watch collection, I have added a Timex hand-wound watch watch.  Not sure what year, but it looks like it is from the early to mid 1970’s.  If I ever open up the watch, I will update this review.   It has a very clean look, with a simple case, identical to my Mickey Mouse watch, which is also from the early 70’s.  . The dial is a deep blue with a hint on purple.  There are block Arabic numerals at the hours, with no chapter ring or minute markers.  The dial is simply marked TIMEX, nothing more.  The hands are stark white sticks and are very easy to see against the dial. The case is 34mm diameter without and 36mm diameter with the crown, and wears quite small.  It is chrome plated over base metal.  This watch would be considered a ‘mid-size’ now.   The lugs are 18mm. Movement wise, it is an ordinary 22 movement hand wound only, no date. The watch starts instantly when wound and has good power reserve and accuracy.

Blue_Crown

The crown is unsigned, which is to be expected.  This watch was probably worn very little, there is no brassing on the chrome plate for the crown, showing it was rarely wound.  The crystal is domed acrylic and was in perfect shape when I purchased the watch, another indicator that the watch was worn little.  Blue_Dial_Back

The case back is a simple, snap on type, stainless steel.  Simply marked TIMEX, CRM PL BASE METAL BEZEL, STAINLESS STEEL BACK.  The watch came on its original, plastic band, very clean.  If this watch was worn more that 50 times before me, I would be shocked.  I put is on a nylon Zulu band, which I think compliments the dial well and makes it wear a little bigger.  The original plastic band was unwearable, at least to me.

I am very happy with this watch, super simple and easy to read.  My only complaints would be no date and no luminous material on the dial.

Features:

Features:

Case: 34mm, base metal with chrome plating.

Back: Stainless, marked TIMEX, CRM PL BASE METAL BEZEL, STAINLESS STEEL BACK.

Crystal: Acrylic with a light dome.

Movement: Hand winding only, Timex no-jewel pin lever escapement. Caliber 22, 18000 BPH.

Complications: None.

Other: Currently on Zulu nylon band.

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Gallery Rado Homage

Gallery Rado Sinatra Homage

Gallery_Dial

I received this watch as a gift from my father in law. It is a Gallery all ceramic watch, which is an homage to a Rado Sinatra watch.  The entire watch is ceramic with a sapphire crystal.  The dial of the watch is a simple black, with gold rectangular hour markers.  The hour and minute hands are gold plated tapered stick design, and the seconds hand is a simple stick as well.  The rectangular case limits the length of the hands.  The case is 32.5 x 31mm.  There is a small date window at 6 o’clock, with a white date wheel.  The crystal is thick, lightly domed sapphire and flows into the integrated bracelet of the watch.  The dial is framed with a black bezel, there is no minute chapter ring.  There is no luminous material.  The dial is simply marked Gallery and Ceramic.  Overall the dial is clean and the time is easy to read in most lighting.
Gallery_Case_Back

The case is all ceramic, including the case back.  The back in held in place with screws, something which is unique in my collection.  The back is laser marked, Gallery All Ceramic, Sapphire Crystal, 3ATM water resistant, Japan Movt.  This homage to Rado does them proud, since they used similar, scratch proof materials.  Rado has always specialized in scratch proof watches, including using tungsten and all ceramic watches. The Japan movement indicates this watch has a Seiko or Miyota quartz movement, I will take a look when I do the first battery change and update the review then. So far, the accuracy is very good, gains about 10 seconds a month.

Gallery_Crown
The crown is interesting, ceramic hexagonal shape and is easy to use. The date is quick-set when pulled to the first  position.  Unsigned, but I would not even know how you could sign this crown.
Gallery_Deployant

The deployant is two button with no safety lock.  It hides very well and is signed with Gallery.  The entire bracelet exterior is ceramic.  The inside has stainless steel links that hold it together.  It was surprisingly easy to re-size and is pretty comfortable.  A point to mention is that is has not shown any desk wear, which is typical of steel and gold watches.

This is an interesting watch.  I only have one other rectangular watch, so it is a good addition to the collection.  The watch has a very good heft and feels well made.  It is an homage to a classic watch, so you can’t go wrong.  It looks like an expensive bracelet when worn and still looks like brand new.

Features:
Case: 32.5x31mm,  all ceramic.
Back: ceramic, held by 4 screws
Crystal: Sapphire, domed.
Movement: Japan Made battery quartz, maker unknown.
Complications: Date
Other: All ceramic construction.

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Bulova Dress

Bulova Dress Watch

Bulova Dial

I have had this piece for quite some time now, but I have not had a chance to actually review it.  It is a Bulova dress watch from 1960.  It has an M0 date code.  The dial is wonderfully simple, silver, with alternating finishing at the cardinal points.  The hour markers are gold plated applied sticks, except for 12, 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, which are diamond shaped.   There is no luminescent material anywhere.  The dial is only marked Bulova and Swiss.  Clean and simple.  The hands are gold plated lancette, hour and minute only.  I am not sure if this watch ever had a second hand, but it is long gone in the last 53 years.  There is no chapter ring, but the bezel has 60 flutes for the minute markers.  The crystal is domed acrylic and required very little polishing.  The lack of lume is probably a saving grace of this watch, since there was none to degrade, the dial is in amazing condition.  It is hard to believe this watch was made when Eisenhower was president!

Bulova Crown

The case is base metal(?) with a very healthy gold plating.  Being a hand wound watch, it is pretty darn thin.  0.205 inches (5.25mm), without the crystal, 0.355 inches (9mm) thick, with the crystal.  The lugs are 19mm, so pretty easy to find a replacement band.  The crown is unsigned and quite brassed over, really no gold left on there.  To be expected with a hand wound watch half a century old.  The watch is currently on ostrich pattern leather and suits the watch well.

Bulova BackBulova_Movement

The case back is screw down and stainless steel.  Simply marked on the outside with Bulova Swiss.  The movement is a work of art, an 11 AFC, 17 jewels, made in Switzerland.  The plates gleam like they are brand new and the gear train appears to be possibly gold plated, or brass with a hell of a shine.  The balance has micro adjustment screws and shock protected jewels.  It is a shame this watch does not have a seconds hand, it appears to be very accurate, but is hard to tell without the running seconds hand.  There is no markings of the last service date.  The movement is held in place with a metal spacer ring.  This was a very nice quality watch when it was produced.

All in all, a very nice dress watch to wear.  It keeps excellent time, is fairly thin, and easy to read.  It has no complications, but, it is the lack of gimmicks makes this watch a real classic.  Sometimes I wonder about what history this watch has seen.  Is the original owner still alive?  (Probably not.)  Was someone wearing it when man landed on the moon?  Was it worn to their or or a daughter’s wedding?  Who is to know?  I know that I will take care of this little machine until I can pass it down to my own son.

Features:
Case: 34mm,  gold plates base or stainless.
Back: Stainless Steel, screw down
Crystal: Acrylic, domed.
Movement: Bulova 11 AFC, 18,000 BPH movement, 17 jewels Swiss Made, shock protected, hand wind.
Complications: None
Other: On Ostrich Pattern leather band,  19 mm lugs.

 

 

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Pulsar PT3035

Been slacking on the watch reviews, but with my distant birthday, I received two new watches, and I have had one in my watch box that deserves some attention. Interestingly, they are all Seiko movement chronographs, so I get to compare and contrast. This is article two of three.

 

pulsar_front

Above is my first Pulsar watch, the PT 3035.  Pulsar is one of Seiko’s watch brands.  The least expensive Seiko are Lorus, to compete with Timex price points ($20 to $50), next up is Pulsar, which are positioned against Fossil and many many other fashion watches ($40 to $150).  Seiko branded is the next tier up, with a huge price range point from $70 to $7,000, and finally Grand Seiko, which can go toe to toe with the finest Swiss watches, and can go into the hundreds of thousands of dollar price range!  This, however, is a simple Pulsar Chronograph, and for what it is, it is a very impressive watch with a much better bang for the buck than Fossil or similar fashion watches.

The dial is a radial is matte plastic, black with concentric rings. There are three sub-dials: 9 O’clock is the minute accumulator for the chronograph, 6 O’clock the second accumulator, and at 3 O’clock, a 24 hour indicator.  Being only a one second chronograph, the long seconds hand is not a chronograph hand, but the running seconds hand.  The chapter ring is a bright orange,  with markers for every minute.  The hour and minute hands are a unique, cut out design, which was unexpected.  They have a high polish.  The seconds hand is tipped in a matching orange and has a lumed tail. The hour and minute hands also have luminous tips.  The hour markers are bold and have a generous amount of  Lumibrite and last a good amount of time.  Not as good as a diver, but very respectable for the price point.  The bezel is fluted, but sadly, does not rotate.  I think it is the one area they really had to cut corners on.  The date window is at the 4:30 position. Overall, the dial is relatively uncluttered for a chronograph and is well balanced. There is no luminous material.

The movement is a 1 second, 1 hour step back movement. The upper pusher starts and stops the chronograph, and the lower pusher resets. The hands have to wind all the way back to zero when the chronograph resets, which is a contrast to the fly-back on my Seiko and Omega chronographs.  Not a huge deal, but it does take some time to reset the chronograph.

pulsar_bracelet_back

The case is stainless steel, 44mm in diameter. Brushed on top with a high polish on the sides. The case back is stainless and screw down and marked with the Pulsar, 10ATM water resistance, with the cool two waves design.  I am very impressed with the overall fit and finish at this price, much better than a comparable Fossil.   The crown is pleasantly detailed and styled and easy to use.  The pushers are polished, but do not click when pressed.  They feel like a membrane push-button, which is what they probably are. The lugs are 22mm to make for easy bracelet to strap swaps. The bracelet is heavy and well made.  It is what I like to call pseudo solid link.  It is a folded link, but done in such a way it looks solid, with no exposed folded metal, also similar to Fossil and fashion watches. The end links are hollow.

pulsar_clasp

The deployant clasp is a two push button design without a safety lock. It is marked deeply with Pulsar and has a brushed finish and appears well made.  It has two micro adjustment holes, making sizing acceptable but not that .  It is comfortable to wear and easy to use.

This watch is a great value for the money, I believe it easily tops a Fossil or similar fashion watch in the same price point.  The movement is what sets it apart, since it is a genuine Seiko movement and is sure to last for years. The overall presentation of the watch is excellent, and the unique hands and dial are original and not an homage that I can find.   It is bold and an eye grabber.  Although there are some compromises due to cost savings, it does not feel cheap.  A great watch at a competitive price.

Features:
Case: 44mm diameter, stainless steel, 100m water resistance.
Back: Stainless Steel, screw down.
Crystal: Hardlex, flat.
Movement: Battery Operated Quartz, Seiko in-house design. 1 hour, 1 second chronograph.
Complications: Date, 1 second, 1 hour chronograph, 24 hour indicator.
Other: 20mm folded link bracelet, stainless steel.

 

 

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Waltham Vintage Black Dial

Vintage Waltham Black Dial.

black_waltham_front

What we have here is a classic, Swiss Made, Waltham watch from the late 50’s or early 60’s.  It features a clean, black dial, a hand-wound movement and classic look you have to pay big money for in a modern equivalent.

The dial is a charcoal black and has held up very well, with no discolorations.  The hour markers are applied rectangles, except for 12, 6, and 9 O’clock, which are a neat, blocky font.  The hour and minute hands are simple sticks, with lume.   The second hand has a red arrow tip, which really stands out against the dial and adds a lot of character to the watch.  An easy to read date window in located at 3:00.  The lume on the hands and dial are pretty much dead, which is to expected to a 50 year old tritium marked watch.  The dial is simply marked Waltham and Incabloc, 17 jewels.  t -Swiss -t, indicating a tritium lume.  The crystal is acrylic and lightly domed.  It was in pretty rough shape when I bought it, but I got most of the worst scratches out.

black_waltham_crown

The case is chrome plated base metal  The case back is stainless, screw down and marked Waltham, Base Metal Bezel, Stainless Steel back.  The crown is signed with a W and is easy to wind and set.  The movement is a 17 jewel Swiss, with incabloc.  The is some brassing on the crown, which is to expected.  The lugs are 17mm, which means you are squeeze in an 18mm leather band.  I have the watch on aged Fossil leather.  The movement keeps good time and seems to have at least 36 hours of reserve.  It tics at 18,000 beats per hour.  The date is semi quick-set, using alternating between 10:00 and midnight.

black_waltham_back

This is a classic looking watch, but may be a little small for modern tastes, at 34mm. Luckily, with my smaller wrists, it looks fine.  It has held up quite well, and looks good on the wrist.  It is one of the few Swiss made watches in my collection, and I enjoy wearing it in my rotation of watches.  It does get at least  one or two days of wear a month.  I have about four Walthams  in rotation in my collection, and I am happy with every one of them.

Features:
Case: 34mm,  chrome plated base metal.
Back: Stainless Steel, screw down
Crystal: Acrylic, domed.
Movement: Waltham 18,000 BPH movement, 7 jewels Swiss Made, hand wind.
Complications: Date.
Other: On Fossil leather band,  17 mm lugs.

 

 

 

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